What was the Beaufort Street Merchant is now a likeable, eccentric jumble of potted plants, comfy booths, framed downlights and studded ottomans. The menu, too, is a something-for-everyone mash-up, running from charcuterie boards and house-made pasta to mussels with Pernod and chilli, pearl barley risotto and a big rib-eye with chips and bone marrow to share, priced by the 100 grams.