As old-fashioned surf-club, chip-shop burgers risk being drowned out by so many smash patties, Paul’s feels essential. It’s a white roll, a dense patty, a slice of beetroot, a squeeze of tomato sauce. It’s iceberg lettuce, a fried egg, hot chips spilling out of a paper bag, bare feet on the footpath, endless summers. And it’s still as busy as ever.

• As featured in Sydney’s most iconic restaurants