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Competing with the constant noise of idling buses by Wynyard Station is no easy feat but happily, Maydanoz’s bright colours and flavours put such sounds in the shade. An outdoor table beside flourishing greenery is a welcome oasis for the enjoyment of vegetable-driven dishes such as sliced beetroot with mint and milky-white dollops of labne.

Mezze-style whipped feta with pistachios, herbs and sweet-and-sour grapes is a creamy blend of salt, sweet and crunch, while skewers of wood-fired oyster mushrooms with tamarind glaze and isot, the dried Turkish chilli, pack smokiness and spice.

Crisp-skinned kingfish collar is served in do-it-yourself kebab form, with flatbread, sumac-spiced onions, salsa and toum, proving that the few seafood options are more than token additions. But when the vegetables are so vibrant, why stray?