More than three decades after opening renowned Darley Street Thai, David Thompson is still balancing the salty, sweet, sour and hot with aplomb.

In a semi-subterranean room with people-watching views of Angel Place, Long Chim has your number for a few quick snacks (betel leaves filled with a multi-textured mouthful of dried prawns, toasted coconut, ginger and peanuts are on every second table), or an extended session of rich curries and warming noodles.

A sour-orange ling curry thumps with tamarind and potent heat, while charred beef, basil and oyster-sauce noodles are like licking a well-seasoned wok (in a good way).

Cool down with a combination of banana roti and condensed milk, and a stiff rum cocktail to counter the sweetness. Much respect to the floor team too, dealing with what can sometimes be an unruly long-lunch crowd with patience and grace.