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Where there’s smoke there’s fire, and this little house on the edge of Brunswick Heads brings plenty of both. The smoke comes via the extensive mezcal lineup, sippable by the glass or bringing agave haziness to a sharp selection of cocktails.

The ironbark-fuelled parilla grill brings the fire, applying heat to jalapenos stuffed with pork sausage and queso, charred purple masa empanadas filled with roasted sweet potato and grilled mahi mahi, and dark salsa macha, stirred through lime-cured albacore and spread on a crisp-fried tortilla.

Tacos are the headliner, specifically freshly pressed tortillas loaded with Ballina prawns and stringy Oaxacan cheese, or fried potato with sour cream and cabbage, or coal-roasted lamb shoulder honed by minty pico de gallo and served with a cup of roasting juices for dunking. An evening best enjoyed with a few micheladas and a whole lot of napkins.