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Canberrans have been drifting towards Fyshwick’s Dairy Road precinct for years – be it for the bouldering gym, the crack tins at Capital Brewery or for the well-loved organic cafe. Canteen, part-izakaya, part-ramen bar, is set in the atrium of Building 3, with lofty ceilings, a polished concrete floor and exposed insulation.

Less lo-fi are the snacks. A mozzarella katsu sando splits into gooey strings and is supercharged by house-made tonkatsu sauce. The pop shrooms – battered and fanned out like flowers – have serious yield and come deliciously dredged in Kewpie.

Bolstered by warming bowls of creamy tori-style ramen, rice and mazesoba, and with a drinks list crowded with sake, cocktails and small production wines, Canteen is further evidence of Canberra’s friendly, elegant and inventive dining scene – not that locals need to be told that.