The aroma of coffee and sizzling bacon at a Sydney Road brunch spot has been replaced by the scent of of shallots cooking in butter, chestnuts roasting and sugar caramelising, with new bistro Magnolia bringing a French slant to Brunswick dining.

Chef Mia Coady-Plumb and her pal Lawrence Scanlon, winemaker at Dirty Black Denim, opened the doors two weeks ago but only commenced serving the full menu on July 14 – Bastille Day.

The new bistro showcases old-school techniques and comforting Euro fare in a 132-year-old shopfront with large leadlight windows that catch the afternoon sun.

Coady-Plumb, who has run pop-ups under the name Fiend for several years and cooked at Anchovy, Town Mouse and Cutler & Co, began her career learning classic French dishes. Her family is also French.

“It’s food that feels like home. It’s nice to go back to that kind of honest food after all the foams and gels and things,” she says.

Starting snacks and small plates include leek soubise with potato crisps, and Skull Island prawns finished with a sorrel and pistachio pistou. Larger dishes include flounder meuniere, Jerusalem artichoke tarte tatin with shallot creme and roasted chestnuts, and flank steak with Bordelaise sauce.

For dessert there’s creme brulee, and a cheese trolley is within Coady-Plumb’s sights, hopefully stocked with products from Lucy Whitlow, resident fromagier at Grana in Brunswick East.

Scanlon’s wine list favours Victorian and French labels, with “esoteric, natural, rustic and more traditional winemakers” all sharing space. The unifying factor is farming methods that prioritise the land.

Tall pressed-tin ceilings, bar seating, and a fireplace and curved staircase all feed into the intimate atmosphere.

“I want you to feel like you’re at a dinner party in my home, having a meal with me,” says Coady-Plumb.

There are plans for Sunday lunches and, from next week, events with guest chefs and winemakers.

Open Thu-Fri 5pm-11pm, Sat 1pm-11pm

295 Sydney Road, Brunswick, barmagnolia.com.au