Just off the main drag in increasingly happening Healesville, this subterranean bunker wouldn't be out of place in the city. The building is one of the most striking in town, a collection of warm blond wood slats standing to attention like a bundle of matchsticks, and inside it's a contrasting mix of genres and textures.

A splendid outdoor area looks out on to the Healesville Bowling Club and a flush of autumnal trees just starting to turn fiery. Past the bar, it's all dark and slinky, with a masculine bronze, gold and black colour scheme, and deco flourishes inspired by The Great Gatsby. Keep exploring and you'll find a series of striking wall finishes, from a tranquil rainforest scene, to blocks of recycled wood, to bright green astroturf. More is more.

It was an art gallery before being turned into a cocktail and mezze bar by Sean Lee and John Knoll about six months ago.

Pull up a stool and admire the Victorian-gothic copper coffee machine and you may be tempted into ordering an espresso martini with Proud Mary beans. Cold, jolty, frothy and sweet, it's the drink you have when you're up to no good – they also do a salted caramel version on the specials board which is right on trend.

Elsewhere it's solid fare served with a twinkle of sass. A short sherry list is named "Not just grandma's tipple", the bubbles are listed as "Celebrate", local Yarra Valley wines are proudly under a banner proclaiming "There's no place like home" (there isn't), and several more wines from "Further afield" could mean Heathcote or Tuscany; beers on tap include Carlton Draught or the nearby Watts River brewery.

The recently revamped Middle Eastern-ish menu from ex-Gigi Baba chef Trevor Schneider features generous share plates and rich flavours at good prices. Crunchy eggplant chips are soft fingers battered up and fried golden with a dollop of aioli scattered with nori seaweed dust.

The hummus with spiced lamb is a top arvo snack, with a moreish (or is that Moorish?) scoop of golden chickpea dip topped with oily, scoffable lamb mince and plenty of pinenuts served with a stack of fresh pita triangles on the side, and only $10. Get involved.

The first Sunday of the month is market day, and unofficially it's known here as Swine Sunday, where you'll find a smoky spit roast pig turning over coals out on the deck, sliced up and served in a white roll with shaved fennel and aioli, and, more importantly, $1 pots of beer. It's a great time to be alive.

Eat this Hummus and spiced lamb, $10.

Drink this Espresso martini, $18.

Know this Tap beers, wines and basic spirits are half price from Sun-Wed.

Say this "Dollar pots in 2016!"