There's been a surge of activity around Fitzroy Street recently – Misery Guts, POW Kitchen and St. Hotel are all giving you reasons to explore the seedy south.

Freddie Wimpoles is the latest revamp on the strip, dominating the street-level corner of the grand old George hotel. It's been overhauled with a full Americana blast, panelled in dark wood and spiky deer horns, with glowing neon and subway tiling, a pool table and a wall of vintage beer cans.

There's even a taxidermied deer head – real, called George – peering over five rows of spirit bottles sparkling behind the bar. It's quite a collection from home and abroad, with whisky and whiskey from Starward to WhistlePig Rye.

The new venture is nostalgically named after the building's first proprietor, Frederick Wimpole, who bought the George in 1873 before becoming mayor of St Kilda and then director of the Melbourne Co-operative Brewing Company (later known as Carlton United). His beardy, bemused portrait hangs beside the takeaway fridge at the door.

The bar is pitched as a craft ale destination in memory of Freddie's taste for beer. A flotilla of 13 taps pumps brew from Moon Dog, Feral and Sierra Nevada, and there's a bunch of "tinnies" from familiar names such as Brunswick Ale, Mountain Goat and Victoria Bitter.

Beers are matched to a short, staunchly Yankee food menu inspired by New York delis (those delis have a lot to answer for in this city).

Hefty sandwiches, all $18, arrive on a plastic trays with branded paper, a generous side of potato crisps and two kinds of tangy, crunchy pickles made in house.

The classic Reuben is a solid addition to the genre – salty shaves of corned beef with creamy dressing and sauerkraut on toasted rye – best dressed with a dose of Changz hot sauce from a basket on table.

When packed with punters after midnight on a weekend, it has the potential to be Coyote Ugly wild – a jukebox plays a selection of golden party tunes, the staff have a cheeky swagger, there are shots.

Give it time to mellow and it might be the Heartbreaker of the south. I wonder what Mr Wimpole would have made of it.

Drink this ... Brewdog Punk IPA, $12.

Eat this ... Reuben sandwich, $18.

Know this ... "Tappy hour" runs from 4pm-7pm weekdays, with $7 pints of Brooklyn and $6 house wines.

Say this ... "Freddie Wimpole looks like my cousin in Clifton Hill."