If Moonee Ponds housewife Dame Edna Everage returns to her roots, she should head for the broadway lights of the Ascot Food Store. The former corner store-cum-Spanish delicatessen has been transformed into an impressive modern cafe. 

Local Cameron Wilson frequented the dated deli, and jumped at the opportunity when the store became available. "I got to know the owners quite well, I'd come in for the jamon rolls. The owner used to make his own salami," Wilson says.

Over nine months Wilson and chef David Stewart gutted the shopfront and three-bedroom residence, before opening in July. Set away from the Puckle Street thoroughfare, the cafe is attracting passers by. "Because it's on a main road, we're getting people who pass through. Plenty of locals, just anyone who's into food," Wilson says.

The pair wanted to maintain the character of the 1960s building. Step-up dining rooms feature retro orange chairs and funky space-age light fittings while the main room is slick with polished concrete and black and white subway tiles. Orange accents, pot plants, and milk pails overflowing with succulents are dotted throughout. Handmade planter boxes and tables line the footpath.

The menu doesn't hark back to the store's former life, save for Pedro Ximenez sherry. A thick slice of buttery brioche is sloshed with sherry and artfully decorated with teardrops of piped creme fraiche, spiced berries, plump fresh raspberries, chopped macadamias and dainty edible flowers. The floral and fragrant dish ($15.50) is a gorgeous delight, despite there being no gladdies in sight. Stewart says the "phenomenal" creme fraiche comes from his friend Ben Evans of Fitzroy's St David Dairy. The micro-dairy supplies the cafe's milk and the pair are developing a mascarpone.

Beautifully presented dishes stray from ubiquitous corn fritters with avocado and poached egg ($17.50), to seasonal mushrooms with duck egg, brioche and pecorino ($18), coconut sago with freeze-dried lychees ($14), a generous bowl of prawn and enoki ramen ($17), and popular soft-shell crab and cheeky Royale with Cheese burgers ($16; $14). 

Twice-cooked pork belly replaces ham in the eggs benedict ($17). Slow-roasted over rosemary for eight hours, the pork is shaved into strips and crisped to order. Hollandaise is switched for bearnaise, with fresh and dried tarragon adding tang and balancing the porcine richness. 

Syringe-stabbed doughnuts ($4) are a fun countertop fixture. Fillings may include a zippy berry coulis or lemon curd. Indulgent truffle doughnuts rolled in truffled sugar ($10) were a sell-out special. Stewart infused the dough with truffle from Daylesford, before serving with a syringe of creme anglaise and a flourish of fresh truffle shavings.

The coffee offering is by Proud Mary. Storm in a Teacup teas are presented in bulbous stemless glasses and include a smoky Bushfire Breakfast blend with eucalyptus notes. Once spring has sprung, the cold press juicer will be squishing a sprightly carrot, pineapple, orange and ginger combo ($6.50).

Smartly attired staff are attentive and excited. The Dame should be proud of her Moonee Ponds "possums".