For the past few years, Filipino chef Fhred Batalona has been sharing the food of his homeland through pop-ups (including at the now-closed Epocha) and his catering business Barangay, while working at venues including Richmond’s Bar Pigalle (now-closed) and Orlo in Collingwood. In mid-April, he went bricks and mortar, opening Palay in Fitzroy.

Who’s behind it?

Batalona has opened Palay with Ralph Libo-on and Michael Mabuti, who are involved with some of Melbourne’s favourite Filipino venues, including Askal and Kariton Sorbetes.

What should I eat?

“One thing that’s happening with the Filipino [food] movement is that we’re trying to fuse it so much,” says Batalona. “But the dining culture is changing ... People are now looking for something a bit more just true and authentic.”

That’s what he’s aiming for at Palay.

The star of the brunch menu is arroz caldo, a nourishing Filipino chicken rice porridge that reminds Batalona of home. In place of the traditional glutinous rice, Filipino head chef John Salang uses arborio, leaning into his experience cooking Italian food. It’s flavoured with a heady hit of ginger and fish sauce before the warming bowl is topped with boiled eggs, fried garlic and chives.

From 5pm, a Filipino “tapas” menu kicks in. Sydney rock oysters are dressed with an adobo sauce that “slaps you in the face”. Sizzling sisig combines pig’s ear, cheek and belly into an unctuous dish that gets extra smoky from being fired by the grill, then the wok.

What if I’m vegan?

From sisig to lechon (suckling pig), many popular Filipino foods are meaty. But Palay has a “secret” vegan menu to cater to plant-based fans. The above-mentioned arroz caldo uses vegan chicken stock, and adobo fried tofu can be added. And instead of serving Filipino liver spread with the house-baked pandesal (quintessentially Filipino bread rolls), the vegan alternative is an umami-rich mushroom paste.

How much does it cost?

“We want people to be able to come back,” says Batalona, so currently nothing on the menu’s over $30. And if you’re on a budget, you could just pop in for a few skewers: the inihaw (grilled) section is priced between $5 and $7.

And to drink?

While Palay awaits its liquor licence, it’s all about non-alcoholic samalamig, the kind of cold, refreshing drinks sold by street vendors across the Philippines. A rockmelon version is made by infusing the flesh into sugar syrup, then adding water and ice.

Where should I sit?

The front window is where it’s at to get a sense of how the space has been brightened since it was Oko (and before that, Hell of the North). Palm-tree wallpaper wraps the bar, giving it “White Lotus vibes”, and the ceilings are all pastel hues.

What can I buy to take home?

A small retail section is stocked with locally roasted Akasya Kape coffee beans sourced from the Philippines, and imported condiments like Saint C calamansi extract. Soon, Palay’s house-made banana ketchup, a staple Filipino condiment, will also be for sale.

What else should I know?

Once dine-in service hits its stride, the team will introduce takeaway coffee and Filipino baked goods, including fresh-out-the-oven pandesal in flavours like ube (purple yam).

Open brunch Thursday-Sunday; dinner Wednesday-Saturday

135 Greeves Street, Fitzroy, palay.com.au