Ah, cheese. I’m so glad you’re back. For years, the health police have put you in the naughty corner, all but cancelling you for numerous crimes against the prevailing dietary narrative. Cheese is high in saturated fat; cheese is high in lactose; cheese is fattening and hard to digest; and lastly – and most recently – cheese is not plant-based; therefore we shouldn’t be eating it at all. (Oh dear.)

Except, probably, we should. For as it turns out, cheese – that’s real, full-fat cheese, properly made and aged – is surprisingly good for our health in ways scientists are just beginning to understand.