If there’s one thing we know about Copenhagen, it’s this: in the past decade or so, the Danish capital has become a gastronomic mecca. Noma and Geranium have both won the “best restaurant in the world” accolade, while Alchemist this year made the top five.

The city’s upmarket eating scene is full of restaurants whose founder-chefs cut their teeth at one or another of this exalted trio, creating a tight little ecosystem that is clubby yet also fiercely competitive.