The Australian grenache renaissance continues to amaze me. Every week, it seems, yet another new producer emerges, selling high-quality (and sometimes ambitiously priced) new-wave grenache made from old vines planted 50, 75 or 100 years ago.

Or an established producer releases brand-new, debut bottlings of old-vine grenaches, again with price tags you’d usually expect to see on wines that have a track record of a dozen vintages or more behind them.