The year began so optimistically. Veganuary was hailed a triumph with record numbers signing up all over the world – only the Vatican City and North Korea were missing from the list of countries where people committed to a meat-free start to the year.

Pope Francis famously loves a steak, so that was chalked up to a win. It was to be the year when our eating habits would shift, driven by a cost-of-living crisis that was sending meat and dairy prices soaring, coupled with a pressure to eat with one eye on the planet. By March, the plant-based picture was looking altogether less rosy.

The Telegraph London