Perched above Hardware Lane’s hubbub is a textbook example of Melbourne’s knack for timeless European dining that’s faff-free, unswayed by fad and ready for all-comers.

It only opened in 2019 but this trattoria feels straight out of mid-century Milan with its dark wood, industrial flourishes and vintage posters.

Then there’s the food, as generous in portion as it is in comfort. Buttery bone marrow with toast and the famous cacio e pepe jaffle set the carbbar high, but it peaks with pasta. Caramelised lemon pappardelle proves simple is best, with a slippery tangle of wide pasta and pops of citrus under a fistful of pecorino.

Lip-tingling chilli crab spaghetti, big enough for two, doesn’t skimp on seafood or crunchy golden pangrattato, while silky crème caramel and house-made limoncello make goodbyes hard.