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Steven Chrun has cafes on two picturesque Sydney wharves: Celsius at Kirribilli and Monsteraat Mosman Bay. His latest venue opening, in Melbourne, mixes things up.

Sana is a few kilometres from the water in the backstreets of Cheltenham, where a menu punctuated by Japanese flourishes is making waves with the neighbourhood.

Some locals catch rays and sip strawberry-matcha lattes in the dog-friendly outdoor area, while others order big, digging into two-hands-necessary wagyu katsu sandos.

A cosy must-order: Udon carbonara, a Japanese-Italian hybrid that uses three cheeses. It comes with charred kaiserfleisch, smoked dashi, a soft egg and heaps of black pepper.