The tri-colour neon sign has glowed for close to 40 years, but France-Soir remains a benchmark for Melbourne-French restaurants. It takes planning to secure one of the closely spaced tables, partly because of the astounding wine list, the menu of greatest bistro hits and service that manages to offend and delight in equal measure. Above all, France-Soir is beloved because it intrinsically knows how to show its patrons a good time.