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In some ways this corner bistro is French to its fingertips, from the warmed slices of good baguette to the final spoonful of crackle-topped nectarine creme brulee.

Unsurprising, since it’s an enterprise by the offspring of legendary chef Jacques Reymond. In other ways though, it’s as Australian as the Reymond siblings themselves.

The high-ceilinged room is a former pub, now with iron chandelier, herringbone parquetry and paper-topped tables, and the menu is dotted with multicultural influences. Chilled sweetcorn custard comes with lime leaf and crab, battered red snapper teams up with zesty chermoula, and manchego lends necessary savoury depth to a mildly flavoured arrangement of zucchini and squash.

Some concepts are stronger on paper than on the plate but the exceptional choice of wines from around the world, poured at the table with warmth and flair, is a constant.