Penrith is suddenly looking like a dining destination now that Ross Dobson, who made his mark with the popular Cafe at Lewers in the Penrith Regional Gallery, has joined The Union. But first you have to find it, via a back lane stairway entrance that feels deliciously like a prohibition-style speakeasy. Once inside, it's all moody candlelight and a buzzy crowd gathered over simply presented and nicely cooked share plates inspired by Spain and beyond. The constantly changing blackboard menu runs from local Penrith prosciutto and salami to flaky empanadas with pork and chorizo, and on to plump mussels punched up with chilli and coriander or gutsy beef cheeks with sherry.