Welcome to kaiseki reimagined. Now in its fifth year, Sepia has developed a truly unique identity, forged by chef Martin Benn's natural affinity with Japanese form and flavour. His seasonal menu is a journey through texture and tone, cream and crunch. Luminous, barely cooked scarlet prawns under a tumble of shell-shocked tempura crumbs and cucumber flowers will ruin you for any other prawn dish you ever encounter. Poached spanner crab with citrus dashi and smoked bone marrow is sweetly and smokily rewarding, and a raft of finely sliced, layered wagyu with shiso and chestnut mushrooms is devilishly clever. As for the extraordinary golden egg, which, when cracked, spills a golden yolk of persimmon and white of yuzu and coconut – well, now he's just showing off. With its moody, clubby New York vibe, polished delivery and off-to-the-left sommelier, Sepia is a compelling dining experience.

AND ... The bar menu is a great yakitori experience in itself.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Moodily lit uptown New York diner and bar.
Best bit Great seafood cooked with respect.
Worst bit Bad case of FOMO when you see the bar menu.