King Street in Newtown will welcome its only French restaurant this month when the hatted Odd Culture restaurant transforms its upper level into Bistro Grenier — an 80-seat bistro promising “queue-worthy” takes on lesser-known French classics.

Sydney’s dining scene has undergone a French renaissance in the years post-lockdown, with the opening of venues such as Martinez (CBD), Armorica (Surry Hills) and The Charles Brasserie (CBD). Last month, hatted contemporary Australian restaurant Monopole announced it had also transitioned into a French restaurant (though retained its name).

Odd Culture director James Thorpe says this one will be different: casual and cosy, with a “sensitively priced” menu drawing from the group’s vast library of fermented ingredients.

“We’re building a French bistro which is very Newtown … Sydney definitely doesn’t need another grand brasserie,” Thorpe says.

“It’s kind of fun and eclectic, but it also represents a period of maturity for our business … we’re taking this restaurant a bit more seriously.”

‘We’re building a French bistro which is very Newtown … Sydney definitely doesn’t need another grand brasserie.’

James Thorpe, Odd Culture director

The kitchen will be led by Odd Culture Group executive chef James MacDonald (ex-Huberts, Meatsmith, St. John), and feature dishes like a pissaladière (tart) with Cantabrian anchovies, confit onion, and black olives; house made boudin noir (blood sausage) with smoked pork jowl, served with caramelised apples and pommes puree; and côtelette de porc (Berkshire pork chop), with braised boneless trotters and sugarloaf cabbage.

For dessert, Bistro Grenier head chef Jesse Warkentin (ex-Continental Deli) references his Canadian heritage with the classic Quebecois dessert, pudding chômeur, baked to order with self-saucing maple syrup and buttermilk ice cream.

“The moment I got really excited about this project was when the first round of menu tasting happened … some of the food has been something to queue up for, it’s really special,” Thorpe says.

The Odd Culture venue downstairs will return to its roots as a wine and craft beer bar, with a tighter menu focusing on small signature dishes, such as the chicken liver parfait with chips and fish sauce caramel, alongside a handful of more substantial options.

“They’ll be two venues within the same space, with entry through the same door,” Thorpe explains.

“Odd Culture will be completely different from upstairs.”

That means a refit to create Bistro Grenier — an appropriate moniker, referring to the “attic” or loft space the restaurant inhabits, with big cross beams and flowing natural light. The interiors are a moody burgundy, with soft lighting and dark French oak.

The drinks list is another departure, with heavy focus on French-made spirits and wine like Ricard Pastis (an anise-flavoured aperitif) and pet-nats from Bugey-Cedon. Vintage and rare allocation bottles of French wine from the Odd Culture Group cellar will appear exclusively at this venue.

Bistro Grenier is expected to open late August. It joins Odd Culture venues Spon, Pleasure Club, The Duke of Enmore and The Old Fitzroy Hotel.