10 of Sydney’s best (proper) French bistros for Bastille Day and beyond
Ahead of Bastille Day on July 14, Good Food asks what a French bistro looks like in Sydney in 2023. PLUS: 10 to try.
Sydney’s post-lockdown love affair with French cuisine has deepened over the past year with the arrival of several new bistros and brasseries. But as the dining scene becomes saturated with snails, souffle and steak frites, there is increasing pressure to provide a point of difference.
As Bastille Day (July 14) approaches, it’s worth considering how the boundaries of classic French dining have been pushed and expanded to target Sydney diners.
For brasseries (grand or otherwise), this has meant a complete departure from the fast-paced, beer-brewing, late-night venues of 19th century France. Rather, venues such as the CBD’s Brasserie 1930 and The Charles and Armorica Grande Brasserie in Surry Hills, have become increasingly opulent, offering fine-dining experiences with dessert trolleys, and duck dishes priced in the triple digits.
On the flipside, the humble neighbourhood bistro was historically characterised by fast service, affordable prices and simple menus.
“A bistro is usually on your neighbourhood street corner,” says Vincent-Nicolas Ventura, co-owner of Bouillon l’Entrecote in Circular Quay.
“They’re more casual, serving light meals, with a changing menu. They’re more like an Australian cafe.”
Not so any more, as French bistros in Sydney run the gamut from the fun and (comparatively) cheap (such as French-ish burgers and funky, natural wine at Surry Hills’ Chez Crix) to the bold and bougie (caviar bumps and bubbles at Bistro Rex in Potts Point).
In many ways, new wave bistros have evolved to better reflect the needs and wants of diners within their local neighbourhoods.
“We crafted the concept [for Loulou Bistro in Milsons Point] with our local neighbourhood in mind,” says Sebastien Lutaud, culinary director at Etymon hospitality group.
“We wanted Loulou to be somewhere locals could visit a few times a week, which is why we complemented the bistro with the boulangerie and traiteur retail next door.”
In addition to its grab-and-go options (ideal for the vast number of offices in nearby North Sydney), Loulou head chef Ned Parker caters for the lighter leaning diets of neighbouring Francophiles.
“Parker’s cooking is inspired more by the south of France, where they use olive oils rather than the super creamy, sometimes over-the-top richness French food can be known for,” says Lutaud.
At the new Bistro Nido in Regents Place, French cuisine takes on the Japanese influence of surrounding ramen bars and sushi cafes. The menu tweaks bistro favourites such as coquilles Saint Jacques (scallops) with Japanese-inspired additions including umeboshi (salted plum) butter and bonito crumb.
The influence of Sydney’s multiculturalism on French cuisine is clear at restaurants such as Bistrot 916 in Potts Point, where classic dishes such as steak frites are transformed with crispy duck and herb hollandaise.
Says Andy Tyson, co-founder of Bistrot 916 : “Sydney has such a strong Asian population, so we feel this affinity and excitement for Asian flavours and ingredients.
“We use them to amp up the flavours of traditional dishes, like adding umami through XO sauce.”
At the more traditional bistros, such as Bistro Moncur in Woollahra and Bistro St Jacques in Redfern, the focus is on creating a sense of community. These are places where regulars come in twice, or even three times a week, for their fix of souffle and Beaujolais.
“The bistro is small, quaint and buzzy,” says owner Nick Stone, who has been known to join customers at their tables for a glass of wine and a chat.
“Everyone is talking and enjoying themselves and the music is playing. Sometimes it even gets a little crazy.
“We want our customers to walk away feeling as though they’d just spent the past couple of hours in France.”
10 of Sydney’s best bistros
Bistrot 916, Potts Point
Bistrot 916 is a place of flickering candles, dark walls, a bottle-lined bar, streetside tables and high-personality waitstaff. The food is high on personality too, with oysters piled over ice, and a variety of dishes served with frites – steak, of course, but also duck, fish and lobster. Keep an eye on socials for Bastille Day specials.
Loulou Bistro, Milsons Point
loulou.sydney
At the forefront of Sydney’s French resurgence is Loulou, where classic French sauces, viennoiserie and charcuterie come together in one entrepreneurial package, inclusive of a cafe, traiteur and boulangerie. For Bastille Day try the limited edition Mont Blanc dessert at the bakery, or book in for a special three-course sharing menu with foie gras torchon, scallop mousseline and flaming crepes Suzette.
Bouillon l’Entrecote, Circular Quay
The popular Parisienne dish entrecote (sirloin strip steak with French fries, salad and a herby green sauce) forms the backbone of this Circular Quay restaurant. The recipe for the delicious green sauce (which contains more than 20 ingredients) remains a mystery. On Bastille Day, the restaurant will shut down Loftus Street to create a Parisian terrace featuring dressed-up waiters and unlimited fries.
Chez Crix, Surry Hills
For a fun night out, try this little French-ish bistro above Surry Hills pub The Cricketers Arms. Head chef Antoine Vassallo’s opening menu is simple and pared-back, with platters of saucisson with guindilla chillies, oxheart tomato tarte tatin and steak frites.
Bistro Moncur, Woollahra
This Woollahra neighbourhood stalwart celebrates three decades in business this year, but it is showing few signs of slowing down. Choose from a selection of favourites such as French onion souffle gratin, or opt for a newer dish like house-made fromage blanc with zucchini flowers, green beans and radish salad.
Bistro St Jacques, Redfern
Discover a little taste of Paris in the heart of Redfern at Bistro St Jacques, where you’ll find all the culinary classics. There’s gnocchi a la Parisienne with blue cheese sauce, duck confit with pickled red cabbage and pui lentils, and house-made chicken liver pate. Pop in for lunch and score a half-dozen rock oysters with a glass of champagne for $45.
Bistro Cocotte, Haberfield
This elegant little bistro offers BYO every Wednesday and Thursday for just $10 a bottle. Pair your wine with a selection of traditional French dishes such as twice-baked souffle, or the chateaubriand steak with roasted bone marrow and potatoes. For Bastille Day, there’s a seven-course menu featuring escargots and foie gras bavarois from $149 per person.
Bistro Rex, Potts Point
A Potts Point favourite with candlelight and curved leather booths. The usual French suspects are here (beef tartare, steak frites) in addition to some glitzier options such as caviar bumps and champagne-roasted chicken on Sundays. Visit on Monday or Tuesday to take advantage of the $20 BYO policy.
Bistro Nido, Sydney
“A French bistro with a Japanese twist is such a good idea,” wrote Sydney Morning Herald chief restaurant critic Terry Durack, when reviewing Bistro Nido. Durack recommends the dry-aged duck, blanched in master stock, roasted whole and finished on the hibachi with pickled kyoho grapes. For Bastille Day there’s a four-course set menu for $120 per person, with vegan and vegetarian options available.
Bistro Boulevard, Avalon Beach
A welcoming neighbourhood haunt near the sea, Bistro Boulevard offers a particularly comprehensive wine list with 16 bottles sold by the glass. The kitchen serves classics like escargot, fish bouillabaisse and cote de boef to share. Tres romantique!
Beyond the bistro for Bastille Day
Restaurant Hubert, Sydney
This Francophile favourite will be putting on a show for Bastille Day with a special neo-cabaret show, La Vie Royale. The one-day-only event aims to provide old world decadence with a degustation, wine pairings and a line-up of five performers.
swillhouse.com/venues/restaurant-hubert
Quay Quarter Lanes, Circular Quay
Quay Quarter Lanes will celebrate all things French for four days from July 13, when the laneways transform into a quintessential Parisian terrace. Among the food pop-ups are Bouillon l’Entrecôte, which will be serving a limited edition steak frites sandwich.
Bianca Hrovat – Bianca is Good Food's Sydney-based reporter.