Mr. Wong

Canto classics with swish service and surrounds.

November 11, 2024

1 / 8Mr Wong offers a lunchtime dim sim menu.Supplied

2 / 8Inside the upscale Cantonese restaurant.Supplied

4 / 8Car sui roasted glacier 51 toothfish.Supplied

5 / 8Dumplings at Mr Wong.Louise Kennerley

6 / 8Alaskan king crab and prawn dumpling with caviar.Edwina Pickles

7 / 8A mural by Creative Finish Sydney.Supplied

8 / 8Salt and pepper Balmain bugs.Louise Kennerley

16/20

Cantonese$$

Disclaimer

There is an ongoing investigation by The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age and Good Food detailing allegations of sexual harassment, exploitation of female staff and drug use at Merivale venues. Merivale, the owner of this restaurant, has begun an internal investigation into the claims and says it is committed to “an inclusive, diverse and respectful workplace environment for our staff, as well as for our customers”. SafeWork NSW is also investigating the company.

More than a decade after it first dazzled diners, Mr Wong’s not-so-secret laneway location continues to create a hullabaloo – and a queue. The secrets to this sprawling restaurant’s success? Style and substance, for starters.

Heritage bricks, rough wooden beams and jade-green chinoiserie make the best backdrop for the dishes of Dan Hong and Michael Luo, including pretty dim sum platters and meaty Peking duck pancakes with glossy skin and all the fixings.

Steamed toothfish with ginger, soy and shallots ups the ante, just right with a side of lightly pickled cauliflower florets and celtuce strips, plus a stir-fry boasting octopus, dried shrimp, garlic chives and the crunch of cashew and bacon.

The wine list is a corker, too – especially if you’re into riesling – and there’s always a switched-on sommelier or three to assist. Throw in gold-standard live seafood and that deep-fried ice-cream, and we’ll be back in the queue very soon.