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With respect to pumpernickel, paratha and bagels, Ethiopia’s injera might be the ultimate bread. It’s light and tangy and spongy, dotted with crumpet holes, but also has enough heft to support brightly spiced sauces and stews, like the wots Gursha specialises in.

Husband and wife Yibeltal Tsegaw and Rahel Woldearegay opened their restaurant in 2017, and East African families regularly gather here for platters of injera covered in assorted wots like splodges on a painter’s palette.

Berbere – Ethiopia’s signature spice blend containing chilli, fenugreek and ginger – stars in a thick, fiery red-lentil stew, plus the yedoro wot featuring boiled eggs and long-simmered chicken legs.

Meanwhile, kitfo – finely chopped raw beef marinated in cardamom-infused butter – throbs with mitmita, an Ethiopian spice blend.

Bring along cherished guests and you may like to perform an actual gursha – the practice of popping an injera parcel into your companion’s mouth – as a sign of love and respect.