Conventional cafe wisdom values street presence and foot traffic, lore that is successfully ignored in city laneways and, spectacularly, here in Mordialloc, at a cafe so out of the way that the closer you get, the more you suspect you're lost. That's how I felt, anyway, as an outsider.

The 800 or so households in the Epsom Racecourse estate not only know where Oscar's Hangout is but also what it represents: a community hub that's more enriching than compost.

The cafe is in the old racecourse tote building (look for remnant betting windows in the brick structure). It faces parkland, so kids can do handstands while parents do the crossword. There's ample parking.

Owners Brad and Carly Mill opened the place four months ago and named the cafe after their newborn baby, Oscar, who is now an Epsom estate celebrity.

Brad is a chef (recently at Beaumaris steakhouse The Grange) but he's the face of this business, spending time remembering coffee preferences and the names of his regulars' dogs and manning the pans when required. (Brad is typical of Melbourne restaurateurs bemoaning a shortage of skilled workers; the outcome in his case, and in many others, can be uneven cooking, service and coffee.)

There's nothing too outlandish on the menus here. The brunch menu is stacked with eggs but there's extra interest in dishes such as poached eggs with baba ghanoush, flatbread, dukkah and a splash of truffle oil. I also like the signature big breakfast, which includes chorizo, spinach, tomatoes and robust crumbed mushroom. Later, there are well-priced foccacias and a snacky menu of saganaki, arancini and the like, backed by larger dishes, such as lamb burger, eye fillet and masterstock-braised pork belly with pickled pawpaw.

Possibly more important than all that is the welcoming atmosphere and extreme child-friendliness. There are clean high chairs, a baby-change area, a drawing table and a general easy-wipe feel that keeps parents relaxed.

The events roster is outstanding. A recent kids' dance party drew 70 jiving youngsters. A dog show and teddy bears' picnic are coming up and plans are afoot for dads' nights, featuring red wine, steak and maybe even poker. It's these community-minded initiatives that make Oscar's the warm, buzzing hang-out it is. I'm glad I got lost to find it.

OSCAR'S HANGOUT  ★★★1/2
11 Hall Mark Road, Mordialloc, 9580 9941
Licensed MC V eftpos
Tues-Wed 9am-6pm; Thurs 9am-8pm; Fri 9am-10.30pm; Sat 8am-10.30pm; Sun 8am-3pm
Brunch $9.50-$20; all-day menu $10-$29.50