Where and what

Fabulous Fine Food serves generous portions of ''modern Australian'' cuisine. Owners Ross Parker and Anthony Green honed their skills at Zartowa Cafe in Elwood and 3777 at Healesville's Mount Rael Retreat. Their latest offering is a popular, relaxed eatery clearly beloved by the locals.

Where to sit

The modern fit-out is fairly minimal, with subtle polished concrete floors, an open kitchen, nicely spaced tables and local artworks (for sale) adorning the walls, and the window tables either side of the glass portico are prime spots.

When to go

Tuesday-Saturday, noon-10pm. A popular spot with local ladies who lunch, bookings are recommended even for during the week.

Drink

There's a small, well-priced and entirely local wine list, with wines from the Yarra Valley heavily represented, all of which are available by the glass, plus beers, spirits and even cocktails.

From February through to November, Tuesday and Wednesday nights are BYO wine.

Eat

It's a broad menu that runs from the sophisticated to the less challenging - starters include chicken liver and Drambuie pate with toasted ciabbata, crisp apple and leek salad, and fried curried popcorn prawns on an Asian salad with kaffir lime aioli - and the portions are large.

Mains, served at lunch and dinner, include cajun-rubbed chicken breast with pearl couscous, grilled beef fillet with a sweet potato bake and chianti, and the obligatory risotto dish (in this case leek, pea, lemon and mint with goats' cheese).

There's also a set menu (two courses for $52, three for $62), a lunch special for $25, including a glass of bubbles or wine, and an excellent kids' menu, happily free of chip-heavy meals, for just $9.

The spinach, cashew and goats' cheese cake served with saffron creme fraiche is a highlight.

Try to leave room for dessert, which includes well-executed classics such as creme brulee and sticky date pudding through to more adventurous offerings such as the apple tarte tatin with a pistachio praline and white chocolate parfait.

Who's there

Extremely loyal locals. Retirees and mums during the day, neighbouring business owners popping in for mid-afternoon coffees and cakes, and families and couples at night.

Why bother

If you live locally, this is one of just a few good restaurants in the 'hood. Owner Ross Parker works the floor and is clearly a much-loved personality among the locals here.