Who can imagine Cheap Eats without Bombay by Night? The hall-of-famer has passed the 20-year mark, and although you need to order judiciously, you can stay within budget and eat some of the most refined Indian food in Melbourne, in an environment that feels more European wine bar than downtown Delhi. Start, perhaps, with crisp chickpea-battered onion bhaji, followed by fruity chicken jardaloo korma or Punjabi saag beef, mopping up its rich spinach sauce with one of the light-of-touch breads on offer. And, after this long, does anyone in Melbourne not know how good the kulfi is?