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Raku counts among its dedicated supporters the odd celebrity chef and influencer, and there’s plenty of clickbait across the cross-cultural menu: wagyu tartare is dressed with sansho pepper and caramelised miso butter, while the Dragon (which takes top billing in the maki roll selection), stars seared wagyu atop a roll with prawn tempura, avocado and kimchi.

Desserts, like a Japanese whisky chocolate fondant that ramps up the richness with miso caramel, track the fusion narrative, but Raku also satisfies traditionalists: bar-side seating offers a front-row view of chefs preparing fresh sashimi plates, say, or charring wagyu and miso-coated broccolini on the robata grill.

Wine offerings – which range from local stars like Mada gewurztraminer through to premium Alsatian riesling – complement the breadth of the menu, while good pacing and discreet, polite floor staff round out one of Canberra’s best dining experiences.