Long-time suppliers of sourdough to Melbourne eateries, Dench is more than a chewy crust and fragrant crumb. The two-room cafe, all white walls and golden pine seating, does a serious line in lunches and creative brekkies. Ambitious pairings such as crisp-skinned ocean trout with beetroot puree and fennel-orange salad may under-deliver said flavours, but loaf-based fare - perhaps mixed mushrooms atop smoky char-grilled bread, salted ricotta and truffle oil - are dead-set winners. Sandwiches of pulled pork or five-spice duck walk out the door. A take-home almond croissant will have you licking the bag.