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The Ho family may run Thy Thy, but Melbourne is the real proprietor. That’s what happens when a restaurant has been part of a city’s story for more than four decades, the years passing in warm welcomes and consistently delicious meals.

The original Thy Thy opened in 1980 and there have been a few incarnations since. This one is colourful and casual, a 120-seat venue with red-and-blue canteen-style tables and group-friendly zones. Grilled beef wrapped in betel leaf is served with pineapple-tamarind dipping sauce.

Bun cha comes Hanoi-style, with grilled pork and piles of herbs. Bo bop thau beef salad is bright with lemongrass, while Chinese-style dishes such as ginger fish are gleaming and generous. Everyone orders the spring rolls – a long-time favourite. Thy Thy may be an institution but it’s easy to fall in love with it again on the strength of today’s offering.