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The African Calabash

Soulful, supremely comforting family-run spot.

Jollof rice with meat.
1 / 5Jollof rice with meat.Pete Dillon
Warming dishes at African Calabash.
2 / 5Warming dishes at African Calabash.Supplied
The menu focuses on Sierra Leone cuisine.
3 / 5The menu focuses on Sierra Leone cuisine.Justin McManus
Fried plantain.
4 / 5Fried plantain.Justin McManus
Chicken drumettes with house-made hot sauce.
5 / 5Chicken drumettes with house-made hot sauce.Justin McManus

Critics' Pick

African$

Colin Walcott-Taylor was born in Sierra Leone, grew up in England, and has been in Australia for 10 years. He worked in banking and risk assessment before restaurants lured him. Now he runs African Calabash with his mum and sister.

It’s a friendly venue serving West African staples. Plantains are fried to hot, golden, starchy goodness. Jollof rice is stained red from tomato and capsicum and cooked for three hours, smoke from the lower layer gently seasoning the rest of the pot.

Egusi, the hearty soup of blended seeds – pumpkin, in this case – is cooked into a thick porridge and studded with stewed beef. A starchy ball of fufu, made here with pounded yam, is a natural accompaniment. It’s equally excellent with whole tilapia.

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The fish is seasoned with paprika, cumin and cinnamon before frying. Want to turn up the heat? Seek out the house-made hot sauce.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/vic-good-food-guide/the-african-calabash-20241114-p5kqs5.html