The colours from the bain-marie are hard to ignore. Cacao-hued beef rendang, golden chicken curry and brick-red tempeh join a rainbow of other dishes. Mix and match them nasi campur-style according to your appetite and budget, just as you would in Jakarta or Medan

Groups hit the menu and add on pempek – fried fishcakes – shaped into logs, triangles or craggy balls that soak up tangy sweet cuko dipping sauce. Sop buntut, the oxtail soup, brightens rainy days with its beefy broth, hints of tomato and meat barely clinging to the bone.

Beef and green chilli meatballs in clear soup kick harder, supported by a textural mix of squiggly egg and vermicelli noodles. Dial it up even further with fried instant noodles, and be sure to order extra sambal. Visit at night to finish with ais kacang: pastel-hued bowls of shaved ice.