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At this clubhouse for bon vivants the hospitality is so seamless, the coats just about hang themselves. Dinner takes shape under chiaroscuro lighting and with as much staff input as you invite.

Open with crisp-walled porcini croquettes and a strikingly fresh plate of stracciatella scattered with pickled zucchini and pangrattato, both calling cards since day one. Given Ilaria’s family pedigree, it can only be pasta next – spaghettini coated in a rich seafood and butter emulsion and topped with scampi.

Stop there and explore the rare Italian wines poured by Coravin, or push forth to an Otway pork cutlet fried hot and fast for a crust akin to praline. Finishing with basil panna cotta topped with vine-fresh green tomato granita is a legal requirement.