Point of order: it’s named for owners Kit and Prue Houston, not the Texan city of the same name. The inspiration actually comes from Austin, where Central Texas-style barbecue means brisket cooked low and slow, served in fall-apart slices that make a miracle from beef, salt, pepper, smoke and a whole lot of patience.

Houston’s is a stripped-back operation where a few picnic tables on a patch of grass provide the only seating options. Pulled pork, fried chicken and burgers are in good supply, and sides – mac and cheese, a wet slaw, potato salad – could use work.

But there’s a reason the weekends-only brisket goes fast. If you’re smart you’ll order ahead, adding a serve of the excellent beef ribs while you’re at it, then arrive early to stock up on potato buns and hot sauce.