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“Shuk” is the Israeli word for market, and there is something of the bazaar in the rousing ebb-and-flow energy of this restaurant. There’s live music from time to time, plus candles, challah and blessings to call in the Jewish Sabbath on Friday nights.

Weekend bake sales turn brunch into a crumb-scattered occasion. The sumac-spiced Machneh Yehudah margarita is named after a market in Jerusalem, and comes jazzed up with a pickled pepper. A platter of dips holds hummus studded with chickpeas, smoky baba ghanoush and labne laced with zaatar oil.

Shepherd’s pie with minced lamb and a drizzle of tahini offers multiple layers of comfort, while shaved zucchini with green chilli relish is vibrant and zesty. And the mood? Laidback, welcoming and warm.