Bistra

Elegant bistro at the high-low nexus.

November 18, 2024

1 / 8Grilled coral trout with white bean ragout.Supplied

2 / 8Bistra’s vintage chrome-and-tile facade.Becca Crawford

3 / 8Layers of strawberries, custard and sponge.Supplied

4 / 8The elegance of Bistra’s dishes hearkens back to another time.Becca Crawford

5 / 8Scotch fillet with peppercorn sauce.Justin McManus

6 / 8Potato roesti patties with creme fraiche and trout roe.Justin McManus

7 / 8A very restaurant-y cheeseburger, served with thin, crisp fries.Becca Crawford

8 / 8Red emperor fillet on white bean ragu.Justin McManus

14.5/20

French$$

Not too fancy, not too casual, Bistra is in the Goldilocks zone. The chrome-and-tile shopfront – with its warm glow and art deco detailing – beckons you inside to white-clothed tables and whitewashed walls.

The menu takes inspiration from gastro pubs, trattorias and French bistros, and the elegance of its presentation feels like a throwback.

There’s chicken liver pâté served with traditional accompaniments, potato roesti with creme fraiche and trout roe, and onion soup crowned with comte. Red emperor is pan-cooked and laid over a white bean ragu. A cheeseburger is piled high with butter lettuce and served with fries.

The comfort in all of this is akin to upscale restaurants of 30 years ago. Retro desserts such as a rhubarb-kiwi trifle will make you nostalgic, too, ending the meal on a decidedly joyous note.