Amiconi started life in 1960 as an espresso bar serving the occasional ossobuco to its hungry card-playing customers. Within the decade it had morphed into an Italian restaurant and its home-style menu remains mostly untouched, as are the cork-lined walls – a mini museum of ephemera which offer nostalgic pull. Chef and co-owner Joe Musso has been in the kitchen more than 30 years and his gnocchi is worth a visit in itself. Old school, not old hat.