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Entering Amaru is like wandering through a portal. The remarkable restaurant hides behind a comparatively humble exterior. Inside, a small harmonised team presents nine creative courses over almost four hours.

The cooking is complex but not overwrought: mud crab parcels arrive atop mussel custard and sea parsley puree, crowned by celeriac cones. Sweetbreads are turned into an emulsion then served as a taco made from turnip and spelt.

Is there any other restaurant in town doing dessert with camel milk? If there is, it’s unlikely it’ll be made into a creamy confection this light, finished with beeswax, apple and marigold.

Wine pairings can often turn into an expensive slog, but here they are dynamic, educational and fun, delivered by delightful staff who have time to engage beyond the usual service theatrics.