Nothing about Afghan Hayat is understated. Not the tassel-tipped red velvet drapes, the intricate geometric wallpaper, or the dramatic mountainous landscape images of Afghanistan.

The menu at this 100-odd seater celebrates ingredients from the region in hearty dishes paired with rice or naan. Mantu are a highlight. The steamed dumplings are packed with cumin-spiced beef and onion, and paired with lentils and yoghurt. Lamb kofta’s gentle chilli heat is offset with a tomato-lentil gravy, and smoky chicken tikka arrives impaled on steel skewers.

Few things here aren’t improved with a plate of airy naan or sultana-studded long-grain rice, not least the fried eggplant dish borani banjan. Black tea and coffee are available but ayran, the salted yoghurt drink, is a refreshing finale.