It's one of Sydney's dining secrets that this unassuming exterior - and unassuming interior - hides a gifted and innovative Japanese chef. Yoshii Ryuichi goes beyond the usual sushi-and-tempura menu to offer his own take on modern and traditional Japanese. With several tasting menus to choose from, dining here is a series of small, elegant, measured steps, from sculpted sashimi to miso-marinated black cod (toothfish) in a curl of smoking balsawood. Tuna marinated in soy and truffle essence is pure umami, and a single cube of slow-cooked pork belly is as good as pork belly gets. A simple dessert of Japanese black sugar ice-cream makes the perfect exit strategy. The mood is hushed (it's a good choice if you actually want to hear yourself speak) and service isn't always smooth, with the potential for long waits between small courses. A planned renovation and more flexible menu structure may well give the food the context it deserves.