AS SOON as you swing open Rockpool's double-fronted doors, the welcoming aroma of wood smoke puts you in the mood. Hunger and the expectation of eating what is arguably the best steak in Melbourne also help: bring on the beef.

It is about two years since Sydney-based chef, entrepreneur and businessman Neil Perry opened his New York-style bar and grill, part of the burgeoning Crown Casino range of restaurants. Rockpool is one of the most successful. There wasn't absurd hype (think of the farce surrounding Nobu) when Perry's place opened; he just got on with business and never looked back. Nine months later, Rockpool snared the coveted 2008 Vittoria restaurant of the year award in The Age Good Food Guide.

Rockpool remains one of Melbourne's finest largely because it's uncomplicated and runs like clockwork. The menu is a bit formulaic - nothing overly adventurous, it's bistro food - but, more importantly, two factors rule: outstanding produce, cooked well.

The stylish, expansive restaurant seats 150 easily, with a turnover double that on any given night, yet the dining room is not noisy; it hums with contentment.

Who dines here? Obviously business blokes, high-rollers, foodies, wine aficionados, way-too-wealthy 30-year-old execs, but also, and refreshingly, average Joes wanting a special night out. Coping with that mix is a highly regimented brigade in the kitchen and on the floor. Hiccups are rare. Occasionally a waiter lacks the subtlety that experience brings, for example returning to the table too soon and often to take orders before diners are ready. But mostly service is intelligent and unintrusive.

And a word or more on wine, as if that could be ignored. The list is one of the most considered and exciting in Melbourne with a strong international leaning and bonus points because it's not a tome. You don't have to wade through it, it doesn't feature umpteen Marlborough sauvignon blancs (two actually) just because that's the trendiest wine. Mostly the list bucks fads for appropriateness.

Is the list expensive, a criticism previously levelled at it? Well, no more than at any other restaurant of this calibre, and it has more diversity than most.

Head sommelier David Lawler plays a lesser role on the floor these days, although his presence is still very much felt. Lawler is one of Australia's leading sommeliers, but isn't showy or a show-off. He's almost painfully reserved, polite, focused and knows plenty about wine. That's the point.

So to start, a perfectly cooled Austrian riesling, Salomon Undhof Kogl 2005: fresh, aromatic and balanced with its enticing saffron-like botrytis notes and, since Rockpool is also renowned for its seafood, the wine will be a lovely match. And, with that, dinner begins.

We are comfortably seated in chocolate-brown bistro-style club chairs. When the menu arrives, it proves a showcase for quality, sustainable produce, as that is Perry's modus operandi; it's also long. There are 26mains including beef from the wood-fired grill and there are loads of dishes from the list of "cold seafood bar, salads and other things, hams, hot starters, sides and side salads". It just makes choosing harder. I cope.

As it turns out, the starter of sashimi of ocean trout, yellow fin tuna and hiramasa - that is, Australian kingfish ($29) - is superlative with each fish varietally distinct. The dressing of Japanese soy sauce, ginger vinegar and olive oil is a fine counterpoint to the softness and delicacy of the fish, and a topping of aromatic baby shiso leaves and freshly grated horseradish - nutty and sweet with a bit of a kick but not pungent - rounds off the dish nicely.

For mains, it's a toss-up between fish and beef, although there are plenty of other options such as rotisserie chook served with a Tuscan bread salad ($35). In the past two years, I've made good inroads on the steak list and have never been disappointed. Perry even had a special hanging room built in the bowels of Crown so the meat could be aged properly. What a difference it makes. Four producers feature now and the dry-aged rib eye from Rangers Valley, from a grain-fed cow ($69), is ordered rare; the other main is King George whiting with crazy water ($39). Acqua pazza, or crazy water, is an Italian cooking method for fish and shellfish in which the water binds the seasoning ingredients.

Rockpool's dish is definitely a variation as the fillets are fried and sit on a bed of really sweet tomato chunks, presumably cooked in the crazy water method. It's good. The steak's better: unadulterated, beautiful meat. A selection of condiments - mustards seeded or hot, sauces such as horseradish cream or harissa - are offered. Newly appointed head chef Paul Easson says the grill is fuelled by ironbark wood from the Blue Mountains (that's why the aroma is so good) that emits a gentle smoke yet burns hot, so the meat is seared quickly with the right amount of charry bits.

While this is hardly vegetarian territory, Rockpool offers fabulous sides and salads. The potato and cabbage gratin ($12) is justifiably famous although, this time, the thinly sliced roasted beetroot, rocket and feta salad ($19) was disappointing. And it's expensive. I've eaten the salad before; the ingredients and flavours are usually balanced and matched. Not this night. It was the jarring dressing or rather the sherry vinegar in the mix. The dressing combines pistachio, orange blossom water, mint, coriander, parsley and sherry vinegar but the last was really sharp and dominated the otherwise earthy flavours of the beetroot. It also clashed with the wine recommended by the affable young sommelier, a passetoutgrain L'exception from Domaine Lafarge. It's an everyday fun drinking wine - a blend of pinot noir and gamay - although one glass was plenty.

Not sure how many people make it to dessert. There are 12sweet things listed, including an excellent raspberry and vanilla millefeuille ($19). The buttery, crisp, thin discs of flaky pastry lightly hold together a centre of vanilla-flavoured chiboust and raspberry puree that's not too sweet, with the edge studded with fresh perfect raspberries: seemingly simple but there is a lot of skill in the making.

By the way, the premise for dinner was to enjoy a quick meal. Enjoy yes, quick no. Four-and-a-half hours later, it was so much for that early night.

Score: 19: Unacceptable. 1011: Just OK, some shortcomings. 12: Fair. 13:Getting there. 14: Recommended. 15: Good. 16: Really good. 17: Truly excellent. 18: Outstanding. 1920: Approaching perfection, Victoria's best.