Albury's best restaurant is David Sutherland's baby, and the care shows in the welcoming friendliness of the place, with its clock-tower views, olive, sage and pinot-toned decor, bare timber tables and walls lined with empty bottles of memorable wines. Sutherland himself works the floor most nights, fronting a perky, confident team, helping match wine with house-made pork and pistachio terrine, swordfish with a mountain of Asian slaw, good steak with a slightly too-sweet jus, or glossy pappardelle, lush with almond pesto. It's a globetrotting menu that stops off in the Med, Europe, Middle East and Asia, souveniring spices to punch up its full-flavoured dishes. Though presentation can be a bit '90s (think stacks), staff have fun wielding a giant baseball-bat pepper grinder, adding wit to a warm experience. For dessert, they're sure to find something sticky in the cellar to pair with a rich banana nougat parfait. The restaurant is located upstairs, so look out for the wine barrel on Dean Street to find the entrance.