Albury's best restaurant is a welcoming spot, with clock-tower views; olive, sage and pinot-toned decor; bare timber tables; and walls lined with empty bottles of memorable wines, plenty of which are on the broad list. The globetrotting menu might offer house-made terrine, swordfish with a mountain of Asian slaw, good steak, and glossy pappardelle with almond pesto, all with interesting by-the-glass matches.