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Even amid this golden age of omakase, Sushi Oe stands tall among the rest. With just six (regrettably backless) stools around the counter, the intimacy factor alone sets it apart, but mostly it’s down to the nous of good-humoured chef Toshihiko Oe, who’s been refining his craft for more than three decades.

His approach is decidedly less flashy and more traditional than many of his contemporaries, letting the knifework, quality and assiduous sourcing speak for themselves.

Nigiri are the main event – plush imperador belly and melting cuts of bluefin tuna, especially – but the cooking also hits crescendos: rock lobster heads make a virtuous addition to miso soup, while blacklip abalone steamed in sake and kelp achieves a rare degree of tenderness.

Not even begging, borrowing or stealing will nab you a booking, FYI, so just keep texting when the line opens each month, and keep your fingers crossed.