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Such and Such

Food and wine connect in a smart urban diner.

The dining room.
1 / 6The dining room. Rohan Thomson
Prawn omelette with coriander and chilli crunch.
2 / 6Prawn omelette with coriander and chilli crunch.Rohan Thomson
Duck on the crown with rhubarb and fish-sauce caramel.
3 / 6Duck on the crown with rhubarb and fish-sauce caramel.Rohan Thomson
Duck on the crown with fish sauce caramel and prawn omelette.
4 / 6Duck on the crown with fish sauce caramel and prawn omelette.Rohan Thomson
Fish in crazy water with mussels, herbs and semi-dried tomatoes.
5 / 6Fish in crazy water with mussels, herbs and semi-dried tomatoes.Rohan Thomson
The “mandarin three times” dessert.
6 / 6The “mandarin three times” dessert.Rohan Thomson

Good Food hat15/20

Contemporary$$

The snacking is serious at this cheeky young sibling of fine diner Pilot. Laminated scrolls lifted with ’nduja, sun-dried tomato, honey and garlic are crazy-good, as is hunky Jersey cheese from Goldstreet Dairy on jammy red peppers that glow like rubies.

Half bistro, half wine bar, this is a place as good for pre-theatre bites as it is as the main act. Dishes have the same symbiotic connection with wine that you find at Melbourne’s Embla, and manager Caitlin Baker runs a dynamic list of by-the-glass pours to go with an opinionated 30 pages of minimal intervention wines.

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Mains can be weighty (potato pierogi, say), but they’re always wine-friendly, especially the barbecued spatchcock with “Old El Paso” flavours and sweet corn.

The pavlova of set cream, meringue and boozy jelly, meanwhile, is cleverly designed to send you straight back to the list for a glass of natural sparking rosé.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/nsw-good-food-guide/such-and-such-20240206-p5f2u1.html