The first thing that stands out is the line. Ryo’s locals and pilgrims regularly stand outside on this unremarkable strip of residential road in Crows Nest waiting their turn. Inside it’s squeezy, fast-paced and strikingly yellow but the ramen – milk-white 12-hour tonkotsu – just rocks. Juicy chashu, jammy eggs and springy noodles bring it home six days a week, 20 years and counting.

• As featured in Sydney’s most iconic restaurants