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A collaboration between Karl Firla (ex-Oscillate Wildly) and Federico Zanellato (LuMi), Restaurant Leo always provided a touch of luxury: truffle over tagliatelle, truffle over dessert. But the Leo of today has found its groove in the pleasures of classic Italian cooking, with just enough edge to keep you invested.

That might mean puffs of house-made ciabatta to smear with Parmigiano-infused butter, or rustic crostini loaded with cured sausage and shards of green olives. Pasta is essential, and none more than the delightfully chewy macaroni laden with sweet blue swimmer crab and a lush tomato-y shellfish broth.

Nearby, Bar Totti’s and Ragazzi may heave with spirited younger diners, but here the tone is set for a more grown-up, theatre-going crowd, who prefer comfort to hype, along with good old-fashioned wine service and hospitality. Small wonder they keep coming back.