Deep in Sydney’s south-west suburbs lies a Cantonese jewel. Celebrating more than two decades in Lakemba, New Pioneer Palace displays all your favourite suburban Chinese restaurant interiors, with Hong Kong-style neon lighting to boot.

Australian-Chinese classics are on the menu – and fantastic – but consider trying something a bit more adventurous. Free-range steamed chook, similar to Hainanese chicken, is excellent with ginger and shallot sauce, while a pork jowl’s sweet and sticky marinade nods to South-East Asia.

Point at the live seafood in tanks – you won’t find better prices in Sydney – for a mud crab vermicelli with smoky breath of the wok. Braised lamb hot pot is perfect for a group and there’s a whole other menu in Chinese which staff are happy to guide you through and recommend the best dishes.

We’re also big fans of its late opening – until 2am.