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There’s a strong family connection at Lucetta, and not just because of chef Francesco Zarrella’s Pugliese heritage. The flour used here is by Molino Carrieri, a brand owned by the Zarrella family; the cheese comes from La Stella, also a Zarrella outfit; the salumi is from Sydney-based Quality Centre – and, well, you can guess who runs that.

Zarrella’s aim is to present deeply regional Italian cuisine, so expect esoteric menu items: Sardinian seadas (with honey, scamorza and ricotta), whipped colatura di alici (with cured mackerel) and stretched, mozzarella-like treccia (with tomato and basil) among them.

The venue is all bustle and joy, chipped paint and exposed bricks. The dishes are bold too, from that mackerel to duck ragu, through to the glorious pairing of redfish with scorched tomato and wild-garlic butter sauce. Wines are a mix of Central West and imports, as is the friendly crowd.